Text Elizabeth Patterson Images Style.Com
Three emerging designers solidified their place in New York Fashion Week for Fall 2015.
Trademark: Intelligent Design
Trademark, established in 2013 by Pookie and Louisa Burch, presented an eclectic mix of clothing reminiscent of Céline. The show stayed true to the brand’s tag of “American Minimalist design”, sliding in enough differences to separate them from the pack and mark them as leaders rather than followers. The wavy cuts referenced on a few coats and a two piece skirt set evoked a mathematical feeling, almost as if one was working on a graph, adding up effortlessly with the clean, sharp lines and pristine tailoring of the rest of the collection. An honorable mention goes to the jolts of brick in an otherwise muted palette, and the smart neckties that pulled together the different elements of the collection. Trademark speaks to a woman who knows how to put herself together and isn’t afraid to take the extra time to do it.
HELLESSY: Daisy’s Dream
“Elegance” is the word that comes to mind when viewing Sylvie Millstein’s HELLESSY collection. Barely two years old, the brand is quickly becoming known for its casual approach to refined dressing. Fall 2015 proves to be no exception. The easy luxury of the designs is enhanced by sumptuous colors and prints that carry a distinctly Gatsbian appeal. The result is the ability to smoothly be able to transfer a white shirt with a cutout back drape and pearl buttons from day to night; to calmly wear a wrap front top with a ground sweeping cape and perfectly slouchy split hem black pants without the bat of an eyelash. Sophisticated spots, graceful twists, hints of fur and one undeniably sexy, plunging wine red and grape satin dress demand to be praised and beg to be worn. Surely no woman with a voice like money would be able to resist such a promise of modern allure from the new brand. And so it beats on…
Protagonist: Your New Closet
Protagonist is the brainchild of Kate Wendelborn and Vanessa Traina-Snow, with Wendelborn holding the design reigns. Their first ever runway show for Fall 2015 presented us with beautiful, tranquil designs with an edge. Basics were updated in a modern-cool way, requiring a double-take to capture all of the nuances. A charcoal grey turtleneck sweater (paired with a matching skirt and elbow length gloves) was saved from monotony by a cut at the neck seam. A striking geometric print coat was worn over jeans. The show moved seamlessly from look to look, and nothing ever seemed unwearable. Each piece had a simultaneous level of “I can totally wear this” attainability and “Where did she get that” desirability. Wendelborn and Traina-Snow haven’t just created clothes – they’ve created a wardrobe. Better start clearing out your closet now.
Photography Jakob Landvik Styling Margrete Gilboe (Pudder Agency) Grooming Jens Wiker (Pudder Agency) Makeup Asst Hibo Musa Styling Asst Anneline Berg
Andreas Austlid Wears Coat Silent Damir Doma Skirt Prada
Darja Barannik wears Coat Jil Sander
Photography Virginie Khateeb Model Takuya Ebihara (Premium Models) Location Paris, France
I was introduced to the agency by a friend!
Did you have other jobs before you started modelling?
No, I didn’t because I was a high school student.
If you could live anywhere in the world, where would that be?
Paris or New York.
What do you do to keep fit and healthy?
I challenge myself with various fitness routines recently. It’s like yoga, chiropractic and sports gym. But I think balance is important.
What do you like to have for breakfast?
I love Natto!! Natto is perfect for me.
A foreign friend is about to visit your hometown, where are some places they should definitely visit?
What were your favourite subjects in school?
Japanese… because I’m Japanese!!
What are some of your favourite musicians?
I love music!! The Clash, The Cure, The Smiths, Beatles, Nirvana and Bon Jovi.
Text Callum Riley
MNDR & Sweet Valley – Dance 4 A Dollar
Nathan Williams of Wavves and his brother Kynan have linked up with MNDR for a collaboration EP under the name “Dance 4 A Dollar”. The title track is a stuttering, summery track with manipulated vocals and wavering synths which makes for a nice change from Wavves indie rock, showcasing a real versatility in William’s musical skills. The whole song sounds like it’s melting and falling apart in the best possible way and it’s an interesting interpretation of trip-hop if you mixed it with a summer jam and an old school playstation game’s soundtrack.
SBCR – The Grid
It’s been a while since Sir Bob released HIDE, his second album under the Bloody Beetroots, an explosive effort laden with rock, metal and electro and features from everyone from Theophilus London to Paul McCartney. But now he’s returned under the SBCR (Sir Bob Cornelius Rifo) moniker with The Grid, an electrifying adrenaline shot which bears an uncanny resemblance to LFO’s “LFO”. This is probably on purpose given that Tom Bell of LFO passed away last year, and The Grid serves as a wonderful example of his legacy and his influence on electronic music even today. Seeing as big room EDM seems to be on its last legs and more relaxed genres like deep house are gaining prominence, it’s good that artists are keeping things varied and releasing the heaviest stuff they can.
Apocalyptica – Cold Blood
Metal is a difficult genre to establish yourself as a creative force in, but Apocalyptica have spent years refining their craft to become one of the most essential forces, stemming at least partly from their instruments; 3 cellos and a drum kit. Cold Blood is one of the tracks released ahead of their first album since 2010, Shadowmaker and has the macabre, theatrical lyrics that is so typical of much metal. Featuring Franky Perez of Scars on Broadway on vocals, it’s a harsh, fast paced track which has the more gentle edge in places that makes many of Apocalyptica’s tracks stand out from the competition.
Heems – Home (Feat. Dev Hynes)
Das Racist have never been my favourite rap group in the game, so I wasn’t expecting the world when I found out about Heems’ solo album, but “Home”, the second track shared from the album following the release of “Sometimes” last month, is a real surprise. Dev Hynes of Blood Orange fame lends his talents for some floaty backing vocals and noodly guitars, whilst Heems talks of a past love. It’s a hazy summer jam and has my favourite quote of the year so far; “Shawty listen quit your bitchin’/ be my remix to ignition”
Jack Ü – Where Are Ü Now (Feat. Justin Bieber)
It feels difficult to support anything involving Justin Bieber, given his legendary status as a complete asshat but this collaboration with the Skrillex & Diplo’s supergroup project Jack Ü is worth begrudgingly endorsing him. Where Are Ü Now is a far cry from the goofy drums and offkey horns of Take Ü There, the group’s first release; instead we are treated to some soft piano keys and gentle vocals from Bieber, which builds to a hypnotising drop from Sonny & Wes. The recent rise of deep house is evident in this track, and the pair break out their own take on the genre, with whining strings and a thumping bassline, which all culminates in some of the most essential electronic music released this month.
Public Service Broadcasting – Gagarin
Some music videos are great because they tell a story and others are good because they spread a poignant message. This video is neither of those things. Instead we are treated to 4 beautiful minutes of the 2 members of Public Service Broadcasting busting out their best moves whilst dressed as cosmonauts. “Gagarin” comes straight from their recently released album “The Race for Space”, and is a bouncy guitar driven track complete with some funky drums and a horn section, whilst a monologue of quotes about Yuri Gagarin plays over the top. It all makes for good viewing which is slightly informative about the Space Race, what more could you ask for really.
Brodinski – US (Feat. Bloody Jay)
Brodinski has always been one to do things a little differently from everyone else. His debut album “Brava” is packed with collabs with various American rappers, most of whom are relatively unknown unless you keep a close eye on America’s underground rap scene. And for US, his collaboration with Bloody Jay, he travels all the way to Shanghai in order to get really really high and have visions of dogs painted to look like tigers, motorcycles that fly, playing Mahjong with old ladies and some performers doing a Dragon Dance. Directed by Jeremie Rozan, it’s a trippy experience and one that you really don’t want to miss.
BADBADNOTGOOD & Ghostface Killah – Ray Gun (Feat. DOOM)
A Canadian jazz trio with hip-hop influences is a bit of a strange choice for a collab album with as prominent a rapper as Ghostface Killah, but BADBADNOTGOOD work with the Wu Tang Clan member on Sour Soul showcased that you can literally get away with anything and everything in hip hop and it can still come out sounding great. Ray Gun, one of the stand out tracks on the album also features some bars from DOOM, one of the most unconventional rappers in the game and a natural choice for a guest spot. For the video for Ray Gun, the group go full on 70s detective show, featuring “The Mask” (probably DOOM’s input, and not the Jim Carrey kind) as an undercover cop investigating a crime ring. Featuring prostitutes, tarot cards and even a guy garrotting the mask’s driver, it’s all pretty familiar territory until the final third section when after getting shot with a ray gun, The Mask wakes up in the desert and pleads with some UFOs to take him home. I honestly have no idea what’s going on with that part but it’s a great video nonetheless and maybe that’s the point.
Seafret – Oceans
Seafret are an up and coming duo from the north of England, inspired by artists like Tom Waits and Bon Iver, they create acoustic music that has a distinctly English feel, something quite difficult in a time where literally everyone and their mother is picking up an acoustic guitar and releasing music. The video for Oceans features the acting talents of Maisie Williams, who most will recognise as Arya Stark from Game of Thrones (obviously one of the best characters they have), coming home from school to an empty home with “loser” scrawled on her back. She dresses up in a homemade superheroine costume, complete with Ms Marvel-esque lightning bolt, and wanders around her town alone for a while, before running into a group of teens. They proceed to mock her before slinging a punch at her face, at which point she breaks out some kick-ass superpowers and electrocutes them a little before running home to her mother. It’s a heartfelt video that highlights the stresses of bullying that some children face, a subject that Williams clearly feels strongly about, having recently starred in a short film about cyberbullying. Oceans is a strong debut from the pair so I’m eagerly awaiting what else they come up with in future.
Florence + The Machine – What Kind of Man
Florence has always had a flair for the dramatic, but the video for What Kind of Man is something else. Charting the breakdown of a relationship at first, showing the couple during happy moments and sad moments, with Flo posing the question “So you think people who suffer together would be more connected than people who are content?”. We then see shots of intimacy between the couple, a car journey and even what appears to be a suicide attempt whilst Florence’s voice is layered with a pitched down copy of itself. Suddenly the couple’s car journey is interrupted by a collision with another vehicle and then the track kicks into a higher gear, complete with power chords, tambourines and swooping backing vocals. We then see various shots of Florence being swamped by various dancers whilst Florence sings about her indecisive lover. It’s all beautifully edited together and ends with Florence slowly crawling away from the car crash, a slightly chilling metaphor for how damaging a relationship gone bad can be.
Photography Michael Epps Model Callum Rockall (New York Models) Location New York, USA
I was discovered by my brother’s manager… the management company had a day where they wanted to meet all of the models’ families, so I went with my mum and was scouted!
If you could be fluent in any 3 languages, what would they be?
If I could speak 3 different languages it would have to be French, Italian and Japanese!
What are some must-see places in your hometown?
Some must-see places in my hometown are Hylands Park where we have music festivals and Norsey woods which is beautiful.
If I had to live anywhere for the rest of my life I think it would have to be somewhere warm like Hawaii or California.
What are the 3 apps you use most frequently?
Ulmon maps, Instagram and Spotify.
What were some of your favourite subjects in high school?
Physical education, I loved to go outside. I tend to lose concentration very easily in a classroom (laughs)
What is that one song that defined your adolescent years?
One song that defined my adolescent years would have to be year 3000 by busted, when I was growing up it was all I used to listen to on repeat.
Fault Line is Sophie Barbasch’s project centred in the small coastal town of Brooklin, Maine. The main subject of the series is her younger cousin Adam, a Brooklin native. The New York City based photographer included her brother, father, and other cousins in Fault Line.
“I chose the title because a fault line is where the earth splits in an earthquake that I then use as a metaphor for a divided family with a complicated history… it also alludes to fault, or blame,” Sophie explains. “I wonder, how does a family support each other, even when things aren’t perfect? My goal is to show the weight we all carry as well as how we are both connected and isolated from each other.”
Photography Manu and Pascal Location New York, USA
This season, Robert Geller found inspiration in the Nadi Brothers, the two then well known Olympic fencers from the 1920s, Aldo and Nedo Nadi, and more specifically he was interested in their style and in the garb the siblings were wearing “apres match.”
As such, the Fall 2015 is a collection that gives a nod to the past while still being modern: Tailored suiting and a somewhat dusty colour palette emanate an old school elegance that is interspersed by more sporty and casual elements, and evoking a mildly aggressive feel.
Within the collection we find round oversized coats in ecru and black that resemble the large coats fencers would layer over their uniforms. Parkas with oversized collars based on a classic bomber jacket, give the collection a sense of comfortable sportiness.