FASHION | HENRIK VIBSKOV SS12 - COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Now, if I’m being honest, I was pretty confused by Henrik Vibskov’s S/S12 presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week. None of Vibskov’s usual signatures were there – the push and pull of his trademark volume experimentation was gone, the construction seemed less intricate, I just didn’t feel the playfulness he usually brings. However, the more I think back on this collection, the more it grows on me.
Volume has given way to length, from cropped trench coats for the women, schoolboy shorts for the men, and long shirts layered under short jackets, breaking up the cavalcade of immaculate tailoring we experience at every fashion week. Colour plays through as strongly as ever, especially in Vibskov’s use of patterns. Earthen zig-zags, and stripes resembling topographic cross-sections quite literally ground the collection in a distinctly terrestrial sphere. It should be noted that just because patterning is more prominent, Vibskov has not deserted the paneling that makes some of his work so unique. Whether juxtaposing brights and neutrals in a slinky bodysuit, or deeper shades of grey in a draped jacket, his unique eye for contrasting shapes continues to do him a great service. Whether this different approach is a new way forward or just a brief diversion, it is certainly an interesting direction to travel in, now it’s just a matter of waiting to see where the next stop is.
Text: Ben Speak
Images: Oliver Milczarek
- August 23